My ergo journey started with similar requirements to yours - specifically including the Y and B keys. Along the way, I learned how important layers are for comfort, ditched QWERTY entirely for Colemak DH, bought a 3D printer, and ended up at 40%. Several years ago, there was a term “1KFH” (“one key from home”) people used to describe the amazing amount of comfort they found when they never had to move their fingers more than one key away from home position, nor to move their hands.

I’m not saying you have to change your requirements, now or ever, but I think people who start to make their own ergo keyboards may be subject to this sort of requirements drift, such that if they ever make it to the product phase, their products aren’t what they initially expected to be building. And maybe this sort of dynamic is what makes it less likely for the product you are looking for to have been built already.

It took me a couple months to stop thinking about layers.

My first move toward ergonomics was a Keebio Fourier 40%. It had been a few months before that when I started using Colemak on my laptop keyboard; I did that using Windows keyboard settings, and I was taking notes in meetings, so whenever I couldn’t keep up, switching back to QWERTY was a hotkey away.

After switching to the Fourier, and iterating many times on the QMK settings, that was the month or two where I had to think through all the control keys, symbols, and function keys I was typing. I didn’t quit typing on other keyboards, although I typed on my Fourier as much as possible; and I have not ended up forgetting anything I learned before.

I’m now on the precipice of moving from a 4x6 Dactyl Manuform to a 4x5 Splaytyl (if I can find those dang parts and get the thing built!) and that’s too small to have things like Tab, Enter, or the backslash on the home layer. I’m nervous. I’ve tried making a 4x5 layout for the DM, but haven’t ended up sticking with it. I couldn’t really get used to keys that are physically there, not doing anything.

I got a Keeb.io kit and soldered it myself, and then I’ve handwired a Dactyl Manuform and (halfway) a Splaytyl. I love how many people can build you a 3d-printed keyboard these days, but I’m already equipped and experienced to do it all myself.

I’ve been using a tshort dactyl manuform 4x6 for 5 years now, having never planned to use it for even 1 year. I only commonly use the two innermost thumb keys; I didn’t think I would like the thumb cluster from watching a video of someone typing on it, and I indeed don’t like the thumb cluster. The switches are Kailh Brown; one of them started to stutter and I replaced it with … a TTC Brown or some such.

I’ve printed, but not finished, a Splaytyl. I think it’s going to feel nice, but it’s only 4x5, and I’m nervous about not having Tab and Enter on the base layer.

Colemak DH represent!

Yeah, I did one for my Dactyl Manuform and just oversized it by a couple millimeters and stuck Amazon bubbly envelopes on the inside. The bottom of each half is flat, the same shape, and rubberized, so the covers just go over the top, I clap the bottoms together (tee hee?), and chunk the whole thing in a lunch bag that barely fits. It stays together without slipping and without any attachment between the two cover halves. Janky but it’s worked for years.

That’s beautiful!

I 3d-printed a hard box for my Fourier. https://gitlab.com/jaredjennings/fourier-box. (wince, there is no photo nor even an STL in that repository.) I wanted it to fit in my backpack with a laptop and books, so it holds the two halves side by side, not stacked. I had to print it in two pieces and friction-weld them together. That sounds fancy, but it just means you take a piece of filament, put it in a Dremel chuck, and draw on your model. Wherever you push down, the friction makes the end of the filament melt. Then I put on some Sci-Grip 4 (dichloromethane), which further solvent-welded the joint.

If you wanted to make one like this for your cepstrum, you’d need to do it in more pieces because that’s larger than a Fourier. Your case would end up to be the size of a laptop. You might not want that.

Uh, I think the Glove80 uses Choc switches, right? For heavy tactile in Choc you would want Burnt Orange. Not sure whether that’s an option they provide or what.

Bastard Keyboards – I’ve talked with Quentin and he seems like a cool guy. He’s an innovator in the use of printed-circuit boards for keywell keyboards. That’s important because it makes keywell keyboards much easier and quicker to make, without the huge cost associated with polyimide flexible PCBs. He has high quality standards, too, in my limited experience of his products.

I agree that you should get a keywell keyboard. I haven’t read any specific reviews (I’m down the make-your-own rabbit hole instead), but I’ve seen some sentiment that the Glove80 is better than Kinesis’ offerings, and I believe it’s more programmable.

And about that last, if you “have to learn how to type again from scratch,” you should use a key layout that will work best for you. This may not be a layout that already exists! Colemak and all its variants, for example, put A and R under your left ring and pinky finger. You might want K and J there instead. Or if it’s easy to press the key your left ring and pinky are on, but hard to move them to a different key, you might be OK with A and R. Though Dvorak, for example, has left-handed and right-handed variants, I don’t think there are any predefined layouts for people who want to type more letters with their right hand than their left – or to be more likely to need to move fingers on their right hand more often than their left.

Carpalx is a body of work that lets you define the typing effort for each key, and finds an optimum key layout for you. I haven’t used it myself - Colemak DH is a sufficiently high local maximum of goodness for me and I haven’t gone down that hill to find a higher maximum yet. But the moment you’re in may afford you a unique opportunity.

http://mkweb.bcgsc.ca/carpalx/?typing_effort

If you do end up making one, or having one made, you might be interested in something like the Concertina.

I haven’t built a musical keyboard, but I’ve taken apart a home (electric) organ or two. I hear that one among the many options you have if a modern pipe organ is being made for you, is different strengths of magnets that initially impede your keypresses, like the pneumatic valves would if it weren’t electronically controlled; as well as different woods for your keys. There’s a channel on YouTube to which I’m subscribed where the guy is building his own tiny pipe organ (like, 30 pipes, the size of a large suitcase).

The hexagonal key layout mentioned by others, and also often seen on one side of an accordion, is one among several alternative musical keyboard layouts: the white and black keys are sort of a musical QWERTY. Not the best, but the largest installed base, the most likely for new people to learn, and the most likely to be attached to an arbitrary keyboard instrument you come upon.

I have a Folger Tech i3 2020, so named because its frame is made from 20x20mm aluminum extrusion. No bed levelling, no quiet steppers, no all metal hot end, five years old. I’ve added a part cooling fan whose nozzle I printed off Thingiverse, a janky ring of 24v LED lights, and a cheapo 0.6mm nozzle. Sometimes I have to print part of the first layer a couple of times and move the z end stop to get it right. It takes about 10 minutes every couple of months, so not a big deal.

I say this not to recommend this printer to you today, but to say that even if you don’t manage to get perfect prints out of the box, the fiddling it takes to get what you want is probably not that bad.

Besides keyboards, and an occasional toy car or something, I’ve printed a replacement shade for a little fluorescent kitchen light, an adapter to fit a lampshade that was on sale to a lamp that was on sale, a fancy toilet paper spool, and a custom wrench to try to remove my washing machine’s tub. Oh and brackets that hold my cell phone, so I can use my ergo keyboard to type at a terminal on my phone, broadcast my pirate signal, and hack into the Matrix, while riding the bus. :)

https://github.com/alonswartz/trackpoint is one data point. I don’t know where exactly you’re supposed to get the trackpoint module.

There are all sorts of Corne variants, as I recall, where circular trackpads are added. Some Dactyl Manuform forks add a trackball.

I just bought an oak board about 1/4 inch thick and 6 inches wide, sawed it off about two feet long, and made sure my keyboard was rubberized on the bottom

Awesome! The only other keyboard I’ve seen this on is the Ergowarp. I couldn’t quite manage to tweak it properly, and I have so many nice-to-have requirements floating around in my head that I can’t progress with a design. Well done!