OK (I’m the same guy who posted with the petg not sticking) Before Yesterday I bought overture petg and I was deceived because I had all kinds 1f issues… But then I tried to put the bed at 90C and the nozzle at like 280 ant it worked… How come i have to print this hot 🔥?

  • pezmaker @sh.itjust.works
    4·
    1 year ago

    Is there a way you can confirm your bed or nozzle temps? I know for the nozzle that’s a really difficult thing to do, it’s so small to be able to check with anything.

    I ask because with your unexpected crash the other day from your post history, I wonder if your main board has glitched.

    A 90c bed shouldn’t melt petg I’d think, so something is definitely weird there.

    Might be worth trying to reflash your firmware in case the glitch isn’t hardware.

    What other mods have you done to your printer besides spring spacers?

    When you level the bed, is it manually and with a piece of paper to help gauge the distance?

    These things have so many places something can go off that it’s really difficult to help troubleshoot without being there. Hopefully something in this post helps you out.

    • eendjes@feddit.nlEnglish
      2·
      1 year ago

      Could also be the heat sensor is faulty, damaged wiring, etc. When I compare them, the reported number can be off by quite a bit from the real temperature .

    • Matcraftou@lemmy.worldOP
      1·
      1 year ago

      For the crash my hotend just untightened lowering it lower than the bltouch. I use klipper now so the mainboard firmware akaik isn’t responsible for a lot. I have done A LOT of mods which I will list in a reply. For manually level the bed, I just probe 5p times my bed with abl, look at the graph and adjust the knobs in consequence…

      Yeah I know it’s hard to troubleshoot without being there,trust me,trust me…

      Thanks for your help I guess my filament is better at 280C ¯_( ツ )_/¯

      • pezmaker @sh.itjust.works
        3·
        1 year ago

        Ok, yeah, forget the paper as far as regular leveling goes with the cr touch. Have you tried confirming your z offset since you changed the nozzle? If you haven’t, it should be fine every time you do something to the hotend.

        Also make sure your heat block isn’t stripped out. I had a bitch of a time printing for a while only to discover I had overtightened my middle and stripped out the threads in the heat block. After I replaced it I had consistent good prints again.

        • Matcraftou@lemmy.worldOP
          2·
          1 year ago

          Oh don’t worry my z offset is set tight! And for the heat block I always undertihhgened and it leaked everywhere so now I tighten it firmly but not too much to the point of stripping the block

      • Matcraftou@lemmy.worldOP
        2·
        1 year ago

        So for the mods:

        All in one rear mounted electronics box by Teaching Tech. Glass bed. Skr mini e3 v2. Sprite pro dd extruder. Klipper. Metal bed knobs and springs. PETG printed rear left tension remover. Crtouch. Ikea lack enclosure (not completely done YET). Others I might have missed so I guess it’s not important ¯_( ツ )_/¯

        • pezmaker @sh.itjust.works
          2·
          1 year ago

          We’ve done many of the same mods. Klipper, Skr, Sprite pro, crtouch. I did the dual z drive mod too, though I have no idea if that’s actually improved anything or not. Probably now that I’ve setup input shaping and have this thing whipping through prints.

          • Matcraftou@lemmy.worldOP
            1·
            1 year ago

            Oh I plan getting the dual z as well lol. I tried input shaping and pressure advance. As far as I am concerned I setup pressure advance and it has been going well.

            But with input shaper I did not manage to get it working, but in my current setup I believe it is unnecessary because my enclosure is FAR to wobbly and the printer vibrations goes to the entire house, I plan on printing springy feet and attaching the enclosure to the wall so that it does not move.

            So my vibrations is so bad that I need physical upgrades to even get it working… And an accelerometer

  • radau@lemmy.dbzer0.comEnglish
    2·
    1 year ago

    This isn’t far off from where I print PETG with a stainless nozzle for 125mm/s. If you’re using a brass nozzle and not pushing speeds then it seems high.

    Have you PID tuned it?

    • Matcraftou@lemmy.worldOP
      1·
      1 year ago

      Ooh I might PID TUNE it buuut soon I want to go with a stainless steel nozzle. So you know… I will even go with a high flow one.

  • hibbfd@kbin.social
    2·
    1 year ago

    I ran a couple temp towers with the overture petg and I found 270-275c nozzle/80c bed had the most desirable results. 0.6 nozzle 0.4 layer height. also with the sprite pro.

    I printed a couple pretty pieces before I started to get burnt crusty bits showing up in my prints so take this with a grain of salt. maybe due to me changing layer height to 0.14 without further testing.

  • rambos@lemm.eeEnglish
    2·
    1 year ago

    Check your thermistor and do PID tuning if you havent already. Your temps are high, but exact number doesnt matter if it works for you. You can see how stable is temperature curve while doing PID. Maybe print temp tower and post picture here